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IDYLLIC LAOS

Laid-back Loveliness

Larina Arrowsmith travelled to Southeast Asia and savoured its lifestyle


Laos is often overlooked in favour of its better-known neighbours Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand. But it still has plenty to offer and taking two weeks to backpack around some of the main destinations is definitely worth the time.

If you are planning on including this country as part of a trip across Southeast Asia, then leaving Cambodia at Siem Reap and travelling north through Laos to cross into Chiang Mai is an exciting route. It also provides the opportunity to take the slow boat to Thailand as a pleasant alternative to driving or flying.

Here’s an itinerary for a fortnight…

Start in Don Det, which is a sleepy island home to many indigenous people. It’s the perfect place to relax and unwind for a couple of days while enjoying food that’s freshly cooked on outdoor fires, and watching the traffic on the Mekong River from the comfort of a hammock.

Pakse is a must, especially if you wish to partake in the famous ‘motorbike loop.’ But even otherwise, a couple of days here can be spent travelling by trishaw to visit Vat Phou, which is one of the oldest archaeological sites in Laos. Travellers can also enjoy a ride to the waterfalls before stopping on the way back, to take in a guided tour and hot drink at one of the tea and coffee farms.

An overnight bus is a good way to travel from Pakse to the country’s capital Vientiane so as to arrive rested and prepared for a busy day of sightseeing.

Buddha Park, Patuxai (Victory Gate), Pha That Luang and the COPE Visitor Centre are interesting places of history. They also offer some great views and the evenings can be spent at some of the night markets after enjoying dinner at a local restaurant overlooking the river.

Vang Vieng offers tubing along the Mekong, sunset balloon rides, rock climbing and interactive ethical elephant sanctuaries. These are only some of the many activities that are available here and most visitors end up staying longer than they intend.

Completing the trip in Luang Prabang will have you leaving on a high. The stunning Kuang Si Falls, diverse festivals and chilled riverside bars (where patrons can relax on beanbags as the sun sets) create an overall atmosphere of laid-back backpacker chic – and indeed, the unforgettable authenticity of Laos.

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