WORLD’S END
WACKY VACATIONS
January 30, 2020
SOLITARY ADVENTURES
January 30, 2020
Peering over the edge
Larina Arrowsmith writes about her visit to Horton Plains and World’s End
An interesting juxtaposition forms in my mind as I rise before dawn to head off into the darkness in order to explore a little-known place on the globe. I’m embarking on a trip to a site called World’s End – whereas in reality, as I survey my surroundings, it seems as though I’ve travelled back in time to a place where the world is only just beginning.
As our minibus climbs up to Horton Plains, the early-morning hour mist covers the hills around us like a soft white blanket that’s protecting the sleeping wildlife. The silence and stillness of this moment creates a sensation of complete solitude as if we are the only people alive and about to witness the creation of a new dawn. It’s a feeling that can only be captured in such a place, which brings its visitors literally to the ends of Earth.
Gradually, the first rays of the morning sun creep over the horizon and then suddenly, there it is in all its glory. The huge golden ball, which rises majestically in the sky, brings night to an end and the world wakes up again. As its brilliant rays illuminate the landscape for us, we spot our first gift of the day highlighted against the unlit backdrop of the undulating countryside. It’s the silhouette of a family of sambar deer stirring delicately as dawn breaks.
It’s as if the animals know their habitat is one of great significance but also imperilment because they conduct themselves in such a composed and self-controlled manner. They create an atmosphere of deference and calm that’s suited to this place, which is both tranquil and treacherous at the same time.
As our hike begins, the cool damp air, isolation and thick grey fog can create quite an imposing and eerie atmosphere, if it wasn’t for the miles of beautiful scenery that surrounds us at every turn. From the sounds of frogs croaking and insects chirruping, to the babbling brooks and lakes, and the vast plains dotted with lush greenery, the whole effect is of a picture postcard wilderness. It offers visitors an opportunity to get close to nature at its most peaceful and primitive level.
PLAIN TRUTHS
- Horton Plains is a popular tourist attraction in Nuwara Eliya with World’s End being the highlight.
- It’s the only national park in Sri Lanka where instead of having to stay inside their vans, tourists are allowed to get out and walk around.
- World’s End is a sheer precipice with an 870 metre drop. There’s another cliff known as Mini World’s End with a 270 metre drop and it’s located not far from World’s End.
- The original name of the area is Maha Eliya Thenna, meaning ‘Great Open Plain.
- The great plains of the Central Highlands of Sri Lanka were discovered by the British planter Thomas Farr. In 1834, the area was named Horton Plains in honour of the then British Governor of Ceylon Sir Robert Wilmot-Horton.
- Horton Plains is bound by Kirigalpoththa and Thotupola mountains, which are the second and third highest peaks in Sri Lanka.
- Nearly 750 species of plants belonging to 20 families have been recorded in the park
- The forest canopy reaches a height of 20 metres
- The Sri Lankan elephant disappeared from the region in the 1940s and currently, the largest and most commonly seen mammal is the sambar deer.
- Baker’s Falls is a waterfall formed by the Belihul Oya, which is a tributary of the Walawe River. It’s named after Sir Samuel Baker who was a hunter and an explorer.
- In 1969, Horton Plains was declared a nature reserve; and in 1988, the reserve was elevated to ‘National Park’ status.
The first part of the walk is fairly flat and smooth, and I enjoy examining the many species of flora and fauna at a leisurely pace. I notice where the ground has been dyed pink with coloured candy stripes running through it and also, a dull grey boulder that’s been transformed into a piece of seaside rock by the dab of Mother Nature’s paintbrush.
Before long, I reach Mini World’s End and stand tentatively behind the barbed wire to appreciate the drop, which (despite its name) offers views of no less magnitude than its more famous sibling. After contemplating my environment for a few moments, I press on to the park’s main attraction as the temperature continues to rise.
Preferring not to climb an optional additional summit, I carry on walking along a flat path that’s speckled with stones and pebbles. Finally, the path opens out into a wide clearing that culminates in a sudden drop, which needs to be approached with caution but is worth the butterflies of anxiety that nearing its edge induce. Staring into the distance for miles around, I’m surprised by how humblingly simple it feels to stand on the edge of the world. My appetite for adventure is well and truly whetted, and I wonder what the other far-flung corners of the Earth have in store.
TOP TIPS
- Horton Plains is about 32 kilometres away from Nuwara Eliya so most people stay there overnight when visiting the park.
- The only way to get to Horton Plains is to hire a driver and split the cost of the vehicle. If there are two of you, it’s possible to hire a tuk-tuk.
- After about 10 minutes of walking, there is a fork in the road – the left path will take you to World’s End faster while the right one leads you to Baker’s Falls.
- It’s important to get there early (say, before 10 a.m.) because as the morning wears on, it becomes too cloudy and you may not see anything.
